Real world “ADV Camp Food”

It seems that the world has become infatuated with being some sort of gourmet chef. Critiquing meals to the nth degree. This doesn’t have enough salt, too much pepper, the cumin is overpowering…..and on and on. It’s as though we act as if Gordon Ramsay is over our shoulders cursing us out over every last detail.

I completely understand the mindset. I remember as an early teen being engrossed with “Good Eats” with Alton Brown, and whatever other cooking shows were on the early Food Network channel. I love making a great tasting dish, and I love seeing friends and family being comforted by a great dish. My issue on this subject though comes in when all this minutia gets sucked into riding, camping, and traveling. While the two can be combined (riding & food), why do we feel the need to complicate

I feel like folks have the Instagram mindset that their picture has to portray their life as so much better than someone else’s. My dish is better than yours, ergo my ride trip is better than yours……I WIN! Sadly this is such bullshit and only detracts from the real reasons for getting out, riding, and being one with the elements.

I may be a bit of a simpleton at times when it comes to camping, but in the day of having 8000 different, crappy, overly bitter IPA’s to choose from, it seems we forget that the cheapest beer may be the most refreshing after a long ride. No it may not be glamorous to serve yourself or a guest a High Life, but give it a try some time…..it may surprise you.

Same goes for a post ride meal. It doesn’t have to be fancy, and chances are if you’re riding in the continental USA, you likely will have stopped for fuel recent enough to also stock up on an evenings meal. So below is a simple meal for you to give a go. Nothing fancy, but it’ll go a long way and allow you the time to focus on what matters, and that’s spending time Out There (wherever that may be), and if you’re riding with a friend, lover, or enemy…..get to know them more with conversation not related to “can you taste the safron infused rice?”

Keep it simple: Canned Ravioli, Beer, and a morning coffee alternative can easily suffice.

While not glamorous, it’ll allow you to pack in and out with ease.
Cook easily and anywhere. Toss that can on the fire if you don’t have another heat source.
Another option is to grab a frozen hunk of meat. If your camp is close enough, you can have some mega protein ready for you by the end of your ride. Just toss over a fire and enjoy.

Enjoy the ride folks & keep it simple!

-Andrew

Dave Ramsey Leads to Spackletown?

If you’ve spent any time on Fox News (shudder), you’ve likely heard of Dave Ramsey. He is Mr. No Debt when it comes to finances. The man literally gets his jollies from watching folks cut up credit cards, signifying the shredding their life away from the 19%APR lifestyle. Now I don’t necessarily disagree. Heck, the man is an inspiration to me.

If you’re not aware who Dave Ramsey is, a quick wiki based rundown is as follows. Dave Ramsey owned some real estate stuffs. Due to some unknowns, he goes bankrupt and then begins counseling people at his church about not going into debt. Ramsey is now the Gordon Ramsey of the Anti-Debt world and has helped many become debt free. He has a tried and trued method, and works for many many people. I agree with this……until my brother flipped something on me.

My brother flipped the “debt free is best” on me as we discussed the actual cost of my latest bike. Did trying to go the cheap Dave Ramsey method actually lead me down a spackley rabbit hole? My brothers thought process wasn’t so much on it being good or ideal to go into debt on a hobby\toy, but did the cheaper (relative) spacklebucket I bought actually cost less than had I of bought something like a new Honda or KTM at one of their 0.99% financing.

Pegleg fixin’

The kicker for me was when I ran the numbers on my latest bike. Now it should be noted that, the bike I got I should have expected resale to be more or less non-existent. We usually don’t buy toys for their resale value, but it is something that no matter what has to be accounted for (unless you never sell anything). So sadly as I crunched and dug myself deep into a spreadsheet, I found that despite a financing rate on a new KTM\Honda\Yamahammer, it would have cost me less in the long run than what I’d done.

Now I understand this is not for everyone. Not everyone has the discipline to finance a toy and even I am not a fan of it, despite having been down that road more times than I care to admit. If you are the type that hangs onto things for a long time, don’t want to drain your bank account, and OK with floating a couple hundred extra dollars in financing charges, it may prove the smarter option. Add in the fact that there is some perk to having something you know no one else had their “heavy hand” on.

In the end its a buyer beware. Calculate your risk. Know what works for you. Just don’t end up circling the spackle uncrusted drain with your precious benjamins.

-Andrew

GPX……What have I been doing to this poor thing?

I was recently asked what I’ve been doing to have some of the issues I’ve seen. Much is likely self inflicted, I’ve got some riding friends who say I put some hurt on my bikes. I don’t 100% agree, but what yah gonna do. My reply to the question was asked follows ….
I’ve used it the same way I used my KTM 350 for nearly 4 years. Except in 4 years, 200 hours and 6000+ miles (including far more racing and street use), the KTM didn’t have a single issue this thing has had in under 30 hours of use. I’ve personally ridden the TSE offroad 3 times. I know Navin put however many hours on it before I got it, but still nowhere near the accumulated hours on my last bike.

First time, I put maybe 45 minutes on the bike before the rear fender assembly exploded due to caked on mud and me riding a very intermediate MX track with a license plate on the bike.

Second time, the bike randomly stalled on me on a moderately aggressive MX track, I assume my bad for somehow getting gunk in the carb. Fork seals also went that day and I should note that even at this stage my front brake was already inconsistent. I had one crash here on an endurocross tire when I lost arm strength and momentum and tipped over, though I don’t recall it hitting the side, and I don’t recall (or see in any of my pictures) of a failed subframe at this stage. I’ll go through my reference pictures to see if something pops up.

Third time, you can watch the video because it was my race. I noted earlier at what time the shifter gave up the ghost. If you want, you can watch before that and see if I did something. Maybe I looked at it wrong, or attempted to shift too quickly, I don’t know. Things you don’t think about when you’re racing, and in the past 8 years of racing, not once ever thought about. There’s the brake issues as well, though as I’ve been perfectly open about, the failing fork seal likely attributed to my lack of front brake feel, but the rears were inexcusable.

I got the messages from GPX regarding the plastics. I was curious on their cost as yeah I had saw that the OEM Husky stuff comes in at a heft 440$ (with new associated hardware). A tough and bitter pill to swallow on a bike that is rapidly & continually pushing North. My issue with the GPX stock parts is what I’ve noted before. The manufacturer may have copied the Husqvarna stuff, but they skipped over the critical details, which to me are make or break. Every single threaded insert on the GPX appears as though it is a round turned part, presumably with knurling. Many threads so far have seemed undersized (causing bolts to get stuck in them), and my personal guess is that they are not molded in, but likely heat staked in post-molding. I can’t confirm 100%, but given that many are in blind hole areas, overmolding that can be tricky. Doable, but tricky. Why they didn’t use hex stock, or add some sort of undercut detail to help retain the threaded inserts, I don’t know (related to whether or not they’re molded in vs heat staked). I have my assumption.

Threaded inserts aside, you then have the exact material makeup. I assure you that as many metals you know about, there are 10x as many plastics. Each plastic just like metals can have different flexes, rigidity, slip, all that stuff. I can’t say on the subframe how it matches to the OEM Husqvarna parts, but with absolute certainty the material used for the fenders is different. Not only is it different, but key areas where they should have molded in pieces of aluminum for added strength was not done. Again, I assume to hit a price point and the possibility of not understanding the importance of these things.

I’m appreciative of the fact that GPX has these parts in stock and at prices lower than the Husky parts that were copied. Unfortunately as I’m finding (and apparently alone in this), but the low price is proving the old man saying of “buy once, cry once”. As I noted earlier as well, I’m getting to the point of being ready to toss in the towel and admitting that this is not the right bike for me at this time. Unfortunately (for me) GPX has kicked the price of a new 2019 down so low that resale on these is (assuming) sub 4000$ range, given a new one can be had for $4500. Kinda wild considering that the bike was just released less than 6 months ago? It’s sadly putting this closer to the territory of a disposable item. It’s a shame as there was (is) much potential for this.

But like you said, I’m 1 of 700 of these. Maybe I got an oddball, or the first off the line. I don’t know. Maybe I just have crap luck with bikes and needed to perpetuate my Buy High, Sell Low Mantra. Like the Yin\Yang, maybe I’m just on the downside of that.

I’ll be getting this one buttoned back up, and contemplating whether or not I take it to the Brushpoppers event and how I am going to move forward from here on out. As I said above, there is much potential, but for me at this time, it just may not be the right fit.

All that aside, has anyone had any feedback regarding the oil injection pulley not lining up to per the DT230 manual? 3 bolts & a twist of the grip to check. Maybe something changed along the way, but the only thing I have to go off of is the DT230 manual.

An addendum to this is that I still praise the tse suspension. The motor is an absolute pleasure. At the price point these bikes are very hard to beat. I’ve likely had some first run teething issues and some self inflicted problems as noted.

Andrew

GPX repair update 1

[IMG]
Race ECU on the Left – OEM on the Right.

While swapping ECU’s I noticed a bit of an issue.[IMG]

Yup, it seems I managed to crack the right side subframe. No idea how. No idea when.
I suppose this winter I’ll strip it all down and see what I can do. A sharp eye may also note that I no longer have the original self tapping screw holding the CDI down. Why might you ask? Well upon replacing, the plastic completely stripped out where it threads in. Further inspection revealed that the CDI was threaded into 2 very thin areas. Odd, as literally a couple MM away, are 2 hefty self tapping screw holes with solid bosses beneath them. Why these were not used? I don’t know 100%, but it appears the CDI was relocated nearer the fuel tank in order to allow room for the starter solenoid. When I have more time, I’ll investigate further, but I needed to do something to at least hold the CDI in place for the upcoming dual sport.

So since my OEM rear fender broke (right side lower retaining screw, above the exhaust), I ordered a proper Acerbis one, and the difference is night and day. The plastic is more supple, I assume they use either a toughened PP or something added to it to allow a bit more flex\give than the one that came stock. In addition to that, a sharp eye will note that the Acerbis fender has 2 aluminum washer\spacers molded into the fender. The OEM TSE unit did not, and IMO is partly why the fender failed multiple times on me.[IMG]

You may also note that the screw on the top right is not 100% flush. As I was tightening this, the threaded insert in the subframe stripped out on me. I’ll have to work on extracting this later and fix this issue.

The following picture shows how I had to fix the stripped out threaded inserts in the sub-frame. I may look at replacing these with better threaded inserts (we use a LOT of them at our shop that are molded into many various products), but for now, the most straight forward option was the following:[IMG][IMG]

It’s ugly, a bit of a PITA to deal with, but it holds the fender on. So there’s that.

There were some positives, and I did not get any pictures of the engine reassembly. Hands were oily and I didn’t want to muck up my phone.

The new shifter went in smoothly, and once the side cover was on, the difference was immediately noticeable. I had 0 left to right play (grabbing shifter on left side of engine, and push\pull it in\out). It would not move. My old one would shift back and forth quite a bit. My guess is that the original moved too much, allowing the pawl the slip on the star, which then allowed the pawl spring retainer to collide with something and shear itself. It’s my opinion that nothing on the pawl side is what is the “full stop” for the shifter. That is 100% decided by the tangs on the left of the shifter by the main shifter return spring. I failed to get a measurement to compare with original, but a small visual check appeared to have a more narrow gap than my original unit. Whether this was wear, damage, or a dimensional issue from manufacturing, I do not know.

The next thing that popped up to me during reassembly was with regards to the oil pump. Since the lines were pulled, I wanted to get everything bleed correctly. I opened up the DT230 manual and began reviewing. Upon review, I noted the following:upload_2018-10-26_8-50-29.png

To note here, at 100% throttle, the notch (A) should align with the output (B). No matter how much I adjusted the cable, I could not achieve this setting. Has anyone else seen this? I assume since its got a heft amount of hours, it must not be super critical here, but I adjusted as much as I could to get as close to max as possible.

Well, that’s about it for now. GPX did ship a little extra for me, so that was nice. Thanks for the swag & pardon the sweatshirt.

[IMG]

And kudos for it not being a flatbill