TSE250RR – Sale Listing

2019 GPX TSE250RR*

Somewhere between 40-50 hours on the bike.  I’ve had some hiccups with the bike (as seen in the GPX\TSE Thread).  If not for these, it’d be one heck of a scoot.  Street Titled & Plated in Illinois in my name.  Setup with a headlight & taillight with brake light switches.

Stock aside from:

  • Grips (Pro-Taper lock-On)
  • GPX “Race” CDI
  • Husqvarna Headlight
  • Husqvarna Front Fender
  • All stock parts I have for it included

As the bike sits, it needs the rear brake master rebuilt.  It builds pressure, but loses it.  The shifter works, but I found myself hitting a few false neutrals.  Operator error or so I’m told.  I also have replacement side panels for it, but not installed.  Waiting on a new radiator support\scoops.

 

$3000

 

GPX……What have I been doing to this poor thing?

I was recently asked what I’ve been doing to have some of the issues I’ve seen. Much is likely self inflicted, I’ve got some riding friends who say I put some hurt on my bikes. I don’t 100% agree, but what yah gonna do. My reply to the question was asked follows ….
I’ve used it the same way I used my KTM 350 for nearly 4 years. Except in 4 years, 200 hours and 6000+ miles (including far more racing and street use), the KTM didn’t have a single issue this thing has had in under 30 hours of use. I’ve personally ridden the TSE offroad 3 times. I know Navin put however many hours on it before I got it, but still nowhere near the accumulated hours on my last bike.

First time, I put maybe 45 minutes on the bike before the rear fender assembly exploded due to caked on mud and me riding a very intermediate MX track with a license plate on the bike.

Second time, the bike randomly stalled on me on a moderately aggressive MX track, I assume my bad for somehow getting gunk in the carb. Fork seals also went that day and I should note that even at this stage my front brake was already inconsistent. I had one crash here on an endurocross tire when I lost arm strength and momentum and tipped over, though I don’t recall it hitting the side, and I don’t recall (or see in any of my pictures) of a failed subframe at this stage. I’ll go through my reference pictures to see if something pops up.

Third time, you can watch the video because it was my race. I noted earlier at what time the shifter gave up the ghost. If you want, you can watch before that and see if I did something. Maybe I looked at it wrong, or attempted to shift too quickly, I don’t know. Things you don’t think about when you’re racing, and in the past 8 years of racing, not once ever thought about. There’s the brake issues as well, though as I’ve been perfectly open about, the failing fork seal likely attributed to my lack of front brake feel, but the rears were inexcusable.

I got the messages from GPX regarding the plastics. I was curious on their cost as yeah I had saw that the OEM Husky stuff comes in at a heft 440$ (with new associated hardware). A tough and bitter pill to swallow on a bike that is rapidly & continually pushing North. My issue with the GPX stock parts is what I’ve noted before. The manufacturer may have copied the Husqvarna stuff, but they skipped over the critical details, which to me are make or break. Every single threaded insert on the GPX appears as though it is a round turned part, presumably with knurling. Many threads so far have seemed undersized (causing bolts to get stuck in them), and my personal guess is that they are not molded in, but likely heat staked in post-molding. I can’t confirm 100%, but given that many are in blind hole areas, overmolding that can be tricky. Doable, but tricky. Why they didn’t use hex stock, or add some sort of undercut detail to help retain the threaded inserts, I don’t know (related to whether or not they’re molded in vs heat staked). I have my assumption.

Threaded inserts aside, you then have the exact material makeup. I assure you that as many metals you know about, there are 10x as many plastics. Each plastic just like metals can have different flexes, rigidity, slip, all that stuff. I can’t say on the subframe how it matches to the OEM Husqvarna parts, but with absolute certainty the material used for the fenders is different. Not only is it different, but key areas where they should have molded in pieces of aluminum for added strength was not done. Again, I assume to hit a price point and the possibility of not understanding the importance of these things.

I’m appreciative of the fact that GPX has these parts in stock and at prices lower than the Husky parts that were copied. Unfortunately as I’m finding (and apparently alone in this), but the low price is proving the old man saying of “buy once, cry once”. As I noted earlier as well, I’m getting to the point of being ready to toss in the towel and admitting that this is not the right bike for me at this time. Unfortunately (for me) GPX has kicked the price of a new 2019 down so low that resale on these is (assuming) sub 4000$ range, given a new one can be had for $4500. Kinda wild considering that the bike was just released less than 6 months ago? It’s sadly putting this closer to the territory of a disposable item. It’s a shame as there was (is) much potential for this.

But like you said, I’m 1 of 700 of these. Maybe I got an oddball, or the first off the line. I don’t know. Maybe I just have crap luck with bikes and needed to perpetuate my Buy High, Sell Low Mantra. Like the Yin\Yang, maybe I’m just on the downside of that.

I’ll be getting this one buttoned back up, and contemplating whether or not I take it to the Brushpoppers event and how I am going to move forward from here on out. As I said above, there is much potential, but for me at this time, it just may not be the right fit.

All that aside, has anyone had any feedback regarding the oil injection pulley not lining up to per the DT230 manual? 3 bolts & a twist of the grip to check. Maybe something changed along the way, but the only thing I have to go off of is the DT230 manual.

An addendum to this is that I still praise the tse suspension. The motor is an absolute pleasure. At the price point these bikes are very hard to beat. I’ve likely had some first run teething issues and some self inflicted problems as noted.

Andrew

GPX repair update 1

[IMG]
Race ECU on the Left – OEM on the Right.

While swapping ECU’s I noticed a bit of an issue.[IMG]

Yup, it seems I managed to crack the right side subframe. No idea how. No idea when.
I suppose this winter I’ll strip it all down and see what I can do. A sharp eye may also note that I no longer have the original self tapping screw holding the CDI down. Why might you ask? Well upon replacing, the plastic completely stripped out where it threads in. Further inspection revealed that the CDI was threaded into 2 very thin areas. Odd, as literally a couple MM away, are 2 hefty self tapping screw holes with solid bosses beneath them. Why these were not used? I don’t know 100%, but it appears the CDI was relocated nearer the fuel tank in order to allow room for the starter solenoid. When I have more time, I’ll investigate further, but I needed to do something to at least hold the CDI in place for the upcoming dual sport.

So since my OEM rear fender broke (right side lower retaining screw, above the exhaust), I ordered a proper Acerbis one, and the difference is night and day. The plastic is more supple, I assume they use either a toughened PP or something added to it to allow a bit more flex\give than the one that came stock. In addition to that, a sharp eye will note that the Acerbis fender has 2 aluminum washer\spacers molded into the fender. The OEM TSE unit did not, and IMO is partly why the fender failed multiple times on me.[IMG]

You may also note that the screw on the top right is not 100% flush. As I was tightening this, the threaded insert in the subframe stripped out on me. I’ll have to work on extracting this later and fix this issue.

The following picture shows how I had to fix the stripped out threaded inserts in the sub-frame. I may look at replacing these with better threaded inserts (we use a LOT of them at our shop that are molded into many various products), but for now, the most straight forward option was the following:[IMG][IMG]

It’s ugly, a bit of a PITA to deal with, but it holds the fender on. So there’s that.

There were some positives, and I did not get any pictures of the engine reassembly. Hands were oily and I didn’t want to muck up my phone.

The new shifter went in smoothly, and once the side cover was on, the difference was immediately noticeable. I had 0 left to right play (grabbing shifter on left side of engine, and push\pull it in\out). It would not move. My old one would shift back and forth quite a bit. My guess is that the original moved too much, allowing the pawl the slip on the star, which then allowed the pawl spring retainer to collide with something and shear itself. It’s my opinion that nothing on the pawl side is what is the “full stop” for the shifter. That is 100% decided by the tangs on the left of the shifter by the main shifter return spring. I failed to get a measurement to compare with original, but a small visual check appeared to have a more narrow gap than my original unit. Whether this was wear, damage, or a dimensional issue from manufacturing, I do not know.

The next thing that popped up to me during reassembly was with regards to the oil pump. Since the lines were pulled, I wanted to get everything bleed correctly. I opened up the DT230 manual and began reviewing. Upon review, I noted the following:upload_2018-10-26_8-50-29.png

To note here, at 100% throttle, the notch (A) should align with the output (B). No matter how much I adjusted the cable, I could not achieve this setting. Has anyone else seen this? I assume since its got a heft amount of hours, it must not be super critical here, but I adjusted as much as I could to get as close to max as possible.

Well, that’s about it for now. GPX did ship a little extra for me, so that was nice. Thanks for the swag & pardon the sweatshirt.

[IMG]

And kudos for it not being a flatbill

TSE250R Shift Issue

During a recent race, I found that when I would attempt to shift from 3rd to 2nd, the bike would sometimes drop into neutral.  I began digging in to understand what was happening.  If you’re a TLDR type, its basically a poorly manufactured shift shaft that has too much slop.  There is the additional possibility that the stop arm on the shift shaft was bent due to use, but I can not say 100% here.

Here is a video of me replicating the issue with the bike on the stand:

Here is where part of the problem lies:
upload_2018-10-18_7-50-10.png

The tab on the left is what stops the shifter from rotating too far down (ie clicking down through gears). Arrow on the right is pointing to where the spring loaded shift pawl is connected to the main shift shaft arm. The first issue is that the tab on the left needs to be rotated in slightly. I’ll have a more accurate measurement later, but this allows the arm to rotate ever so slightly too far down, allowing the detent to slip over into neutral.

This issue is exacerbated by the fact that where the shift pawl interfaces with the shift arm, is extremely sloppy.
[​IMG]

I attempted to make a slow-motion video here:

I believe that adding a bit of weld to the face of the shift shaft like @Jazzy6 will be required. If the “stop boss” on the clutch cover wears enough, or the total slop in everything is too much, the shift pawl could lose contact with the shift star itself. Mine had a little bit of movement (in\out), but not enough to completely lose contact with the shift drum star.

So I’m looking at this a couple ways. One, I can just weld the arm up to stop the movement of the shifter, thereby halting it from skipping past 2nd and into neutral. If I do this, I’d also look at welding a dot on the face to reduce\eliminate the in\out slop of the shaft itself. The other option is I go all in and make a new one. I don’t think I’ll do that, as it just doesn’t seem worth it.

It is interesting to note if you look at the WR200 shift shaft, it looks like this:
upload_2018-10-18_8-13-48.png

I wonder why they didn’t do a full loop over the tangs on this DT230 engine. :dunno If Possible, I may weld an arm connecting the 2. I’ll verify if anything would interfere, but this would insure the arms don’t bend prematurely.

ALso note….. The spring detent is just fine:
[​IMG]

Another tidbit….. If you look at the 5 o’clock in relation to the main gear in this picture, you’ll see a gray looking spot on the smooth surface. That looks to be where either the water or oil pump gear is wearing into the surface of the cases. Not sure if it’s something to be concerned about, but already seeing a worn spot.
[​IMG]

Also to note on my site here is that I found this while working my way in to get access to the shift shaft:

Yes, that’s the nut holding the clutch basket assembly to the motor.  You’ll note that while there is a lock washer in place, it was not set in the “locked” position anywhere.  May be an isolated case, but not exactly what I’d call encouraging.  Far from what I’d be expecting for a bike with less than 40 hours on it.

Andrew

UPDATE:

Based on a discussion on ADVRider, another individual noted he had the same problem over a month ago, which was relayed to GPX.  The issue stems from the tab which holds the pawl spring.  You can plainly see on mine, that it is deformed and close to breaking off.

That should be perpendicular to the main body.  Mine as you can see is close to tearing off (opposite side)

Temporary solution will be to bend & weld this tab.  I will also work on correcting the slop out of the pawl, is it’s quite sloppy.

Auto chrono 1 pt2

The world of tiny is upon me as I was tweezering along with the tiny hands for my seconds and Chrono dials. Everything looks so big in a picture, but then even under magnification, my eyes were squinting just trying to pick the things up. I’ve realized now that is partly because I’m only at 3.5x magnification and I need to be at 10x. It’s ok, I still look googly eyed….

 

However let me take a step back and show the little bits that’ll be making up this second watch assembly.  I have a case, dial, and hands all supplied by Ofrei.  The strap is from amazon by a company called Barton Watch Bands.  it has a nice easy access spring bar, making installation tool free.  The dark brown I felt paired well with the blue bezel & dial theme I was proceeding with.

The movement as noted in my Pt 1 of this was sourced off eBay.  The unit is an asian replica of the ETA 7750 movement.  First things first were to get it up in the holder and strip off the provided hands and dial.  I pulled a major facepalm on this and failed to remember that there were retention arms for holding the dial to the movement.  The dial still easily removed, but I felt quite silly once I had it off and forgot to flip the little arms out.

From here I wanted to pull the rotor of the rear so I could hold the movement a little better.  Sadly, I don’t have a legit 7750 movement holder, otherwise I could be a bit more secure in what I do, but it is what it is.  Assuming I do more like this, I’ll certainly make something.  With the dial off, and flipped over, I quickly heard the slip out of the Day Dial.  I didn’t nab any pictures of this, but I quickly realized how I needed to reinstall this, as it’s held in place with a bit of pressure from the rotating gear.

Oscillating weight removed

From here I placed my dial (making sure to open the dial feet retention arms) and began the daunting (for me) task of placing hands.  I quickly realized that a few things I have are quite inadequate.  My tweezers weren’t delicate enough.  My movement holder doesn’t hold the movement as square as I’d like.  And worst of all, my hand press tool, while the main unit isn’t bad, the business end details are utter garbage.  The plastic is mushed over, so they definitely aren’t pushing on the hands squarely.  It’s close, but when you’re staring at these tiny things, zoomed in to the moon, you want precision.  I’m sure a more seasoned hand works well without this stuff, but different strokes for different folks.

 

One down, five to go.

Once I got the subdials done, the main hands went incredibly quickly.  It felt like I was zooming along.

My Chronograph Seconds hand was a bit long for my case & dial, so I had to do some trim work.  Super secret tool used here was a nice set of nail clippers.  Where the hand rests in the case, you’ll never see the bare end.

It was around here, when I went to begin adjusting the length of my stem that I realized that the stem included with my movement was NOT what it was supposed to be.  The diameter of the stem is 0.9mm, and my case requires a 1.2mm stem.  NOt much, but enough to have a minor hold up with things.  I’m still waiting on a new shipment of one off eBay, as it seems USPS has lost the stem.  Such is life.

In the interim, I added some personal details to the oscillating weight, though I’m a bit bummed in what happened with our Laser.  I had modeled up the weight in solidworks along with our old family name & a logo representative of my daughter.  All was well in 3D, however when I lasered onto the weight, the scale was not quite right.  I’ll know for future ones, and likely order a replacement so I can do it correctly.  Despite this not being an exhibition back case, it still kinda bugs me.  Still looks nice though otherwise.

So while I couldn’t finish my stem, I decided I’d still wind the watch up, set the date and assemble (sans stem) just so I could get a feel for the watch assembled, and see if anything else unexpected creeped up on me.  The finish of it all was something that I quite enjoyed.

Unfortunately it was about 10 minutes after this, that I realized there was a fatal issue.  When resetting the chrono, the second hand would slip on its shaft.  Annoying, but I knew I could remedy.  I brought out the staking set and went about to compress the mating shaft on the second hand.

I should note that by this point, I’ve also snagged a 10x loupe as well as some much better tweezers.  Yah, the tweezers were still amazon specials, but for the 12$ they cost, I figured I’d give them a shot.  I quickly realized as well that I am terrible at holding a loupe to my face.  I also realized that while my staking set went to very small sizes, it didn’t get small enough.  Some quick research turned up that my options were to either compress the tube somehow, or glue.  I opted for the latter, as I felt I could get a tiny dot of superglue on the face, and given that the stem was a press fit on the shaft, it wouldn’t allow the glue to wick down into the movement.  The result was a second hand that stays put.

I’ll update this with some pictures & such when I get the new stem in…..if it ever shows up.

Andrew