Auto chrono 1 pt2

The world of tiny is upon me as I was tweezering along with the tiny hands for my seconds and Chrono dials. Everything looks so big in a picture, but then even under magnification, my eyes were squinting just trying to pick the things up. I’ve realized now that is partly because I’m only at 3.5x magnification and I need to be at 10x. It’s ok, I still look googly eyed….

 

However let me take a step back and show the little bits that’ll be making up this second watch assembly.  I have a case, dial, and hands all supplied by Ofrei.  The strap is from amazon by a company called Barton Watch Bands.  it has a nice easy access spring bar, making installation tool free.  The dark brown I felt paired well with the blue bezel & dial theme I was proceeding with.

The movement as noted in my Pt 1 of this was sourced off eBay.  The unit is an asian replica of the ETA 7750 movement.  First things first were to get it up in the holder and strip off the provided hands and dial.  I pulled a major facepalm on this and failed to remember that there were retention arms for holding the dial to the movement.  The dial still easily removed, but I felt quite silly once I had it off and forgot to flip the little arms out.

From here I wanted to pull the rotor of the rear so I could hold the movement a little better.  Sadly, I don’t have a legit 7750 movement holder, otherwise I could be a bit more secure in what I do, but it is what it is.  Assuming I do more like this, I’ll certainly make something.  With the dial off, and flipped over, I quickly heard the slip out of the Day Dial.  I didn’t nab any pictures of this, but I quickly realized how I needed to reinstall this, as it’s held in place with a bit of pressure from the rotating gear.

Oscillating weight removed

From here I placed my dial (making sure to open the dial feet retention arms) and began the daunting (for me) task of placing hands.  I quickly realized that a few things I have are quite inadequate.  My tweezers weren’t delicate enough.  My movement holder doesn’t hold the movement as square as I’d like.  And worst of all, my hand press tool, while the main unit isn’t bad, the business end details are utter garbage.  The plastic is mushed over, so they definitely aren’t pushing on the hands squarely.  It’s close, but when you’re staring at these tiny things, zoomed in to the moon, you want precision.  I’m sure a more seasoned hand works well without this stuff, but different strokes for different folks.

 

One down, five to go.

Once I got the subdials done, the main hands went incredibly quickly.  It felt like I was zooming along.

My Chronograph Seconds hand was a bit long for my case & dial, so I had to do some trim work.  Super secret tool used here was a nice set of nail clippers.  Where the hand rests in the case, you’ll never see the bare end.

It was around here, when I went to begin adjusting the length of my stem that I realized that the stem included with my movement was NOT what it was supposed to be.  The diameter of the stem is 0.9mm, and my case requires a 1.2mm stem.  NOt much, but enough to have a minor hold up with things.  I’m still waiting on a new shipment of one off eBay, as it seems USPS has lost the stem.  Such is life.

In the interim, I added some personal details to the oscillating weight, though I’m a bit bummed in what happened with our Laser.  I had modeled up the weight in solidworks along with our old family name & a logo representative of my daughter.  All was well in 3D, however when I lasered onto the weight, the scale was not quite right.  I’ll know for future ones, and likely order a replacement so I can do it correctly.  Despite this not being an exhibition back case, it still kinda bugs me.  Still looks nice though otherwise.

So while I couldn’t finish my stem, I decided I’d still wind the watch up, set the date and assemble (sans stem) just so I could get a feel for the watch assembled, and see if anything else unexpected creeped up on me.  The finish of it all was something that I quite enjoyed.

Unfortunately it was about 10 minutes after this, that I realized there was a fatal issue.  When resetting the chrono, the second hand would slip on its shaft.  Annoying, but I knew I could remedy.  I brought out the staking set and went about to compress the mating shaft on the second hand.

I should note that by this point, I’ve also snagged a 10x loupe as well as some much better tweezers.  Yah, the tweezers were still amazon specials, but for the 12$ they cost, I figured I’d give them a shot.  I quickly realized as well that I am terrible at holding a loupe to my face.  I also realized that while my staking set went to very small sizes, it didn’t get small enough.  Some quick research turned up that my options were to either compress the tube somehow, or glue.  I opted for the latter, as I felt I could get a tiny dot of superglue on the face, and given that the stem was a press fit on the shaft, it wouldn’t allow the glue to wick down into the movement.  The result was a second hand that stays put.

I’ll update this with some pictures & such when I get the new stem in…..if it ever shows up.

Andrew

 

Automatic Chronograph 1 pt1

The story behind this watch is quite simple.  I really love the look of a Rolex Daytona, but something I haven’t been able to bring myself to plunk down the money for.  I did however find a very nice looking Victorinox Swiss Army Chronograph.  My wife got me that as an anniversary gift.  I love that watch and enjoy just how well detailed everything is.  I can’t however deny that my mechanical mind longs for it to be an auto.  Yes, I love listening to the stop watch gears clicking away, but the heart of the watch is still a battery, and I realized that the dials of the VSA only count up to 30 minutes, and the upper right sub-dial is for 1/100ths of a second.  Not the most useful for me in any way.  Measuring time in Hours\Minutes\Seconds would be best.  Thus my quest to go auto-chrono began.

The details of this Victorinox 241509 Chrono are outstanding.

So where did I need to begin for my Auto Chrono quest.  That was pretty simple.  Since I have yet to fully design a watch case, I needed to find something off the shelf.  eBay was an option, however I wanted to go with a known, so it was to Ofrei for what they had.  Blue bezel, sapphire glass crystal, and a very attractive buy in price.  Not only that, but they had an assortment of dials and corresponding hands for this project.  I’ve never had a a blue face watch, so I ordered an assortment of hands in various colors to see what I will feel looks best as everything is brought together.

However as I’m still waiting on delivery, I’ll backup to the heart of the beast.  While I know many fine things come from the land of the Swiss (chocolates….my favorite), being my first major build, I opted to source an Asian 7750.  Basically, if I botch something up, I’m not out the 400$+.  Not that I plan on screwing up, but hey, I’m relatively new at this.

More to come as I really begin digging into things.

Andrew

Invicta Mod 1

In 2007 or so I had heard about Invicta Sunday Run.  I was boggled by the fact that you could get an apparently Swiss Made watch for rock bottom prices.  At the time I still didn’t want to plunk down any money on a watch, so to the back of my head went the fantasy.  Fast Forward 7 years and I find myself wanting to scoop up an automatic watch.  By now I knew that while the Invicta’s were nothing to rave about and by the look of most….a bit gaudy or over the top, I still wanted one.  At the sub $100 buy-in, I figured worst case I’ve got some auto beater and that’d be that.

Enter my 12385 Pro Diver.  An interesting off color blue bezel & crown with well, let the images state the obvious.

All wasn’t or isn’t really bad with the Invicta.  Yah, the strap sucked especially given it had hollow end links, but the heart of the beast is a Seiko NH35 which has kept impeccable time.  The time has been been consistent despite the fact that I have literally chucked this thing across a skatepark, with it landing on concrete after the springbars failed.  This failure led me to trying a handful of configurations as I quickly realized that in its stock form, this was anything but an ideal daily wear watch for myself.

I tried alternate straps, but still the emblazoned INVICTA logo and mismatch strap just wasn’t working for me.

I even printed a watch molder to mount the Invicta to my motorcycle. It worked, but still did not seem right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With a pile of straps tested and still not feeling right with this watch, it was banished to somewhere in my sock drawer.  Too cheap to resell, but still something about it kept drawing me back.  Winter of 2015 I was living with my in-laws, while all my garage & technical possessions were nestled a few miles away in my parents basement.  What was also nestled in their basement was my great-grandfathers watchmakers bench.  Something I had looked at since early childhood.  I will post more on this later, but it was there as I was contemplating life that I knew I had to get to my family roots and do something with my watches.  The Invicta was the perfect choice to start out with, as I knew I essentially had nothing to lose.

My plan was a simple, with little overall plan other than “modify to improve looks”.  When you’re at the bottom, your only way is up, so off I set about to disassemble and gain access to the case itself.  Out came the inners, and off I went to the shop.

Bezel off.

With the Bezel off, it was time to get rid of the shine. I also needed to get rid of the giant INVICTA logo on the side. I hammed myself up to the belt sander, and then realized that I needed a matte finish. I didn’t have a tool for removing or installing the glass, so I did what I could to mask these critical areas.  For now I was done and had to start looking into dials & hands

Taking shape, though that cyclops is unsightly.

From here, the watch sat for nearly 3 years.  I moved and then from there brought my first child to the world.  I decided finally the finish and buckle down.  It was then that I realized pretty much no one makes a dial to properly fit.  Dial posts in the wrong location, and on top of that, date window not in the right location.  I’d hoped some other dials would work, but it just wasn’t to be.

Small and stout

I then found myself a dial on ebay straight from China.  I had intended to continue with a red\black theme I generally do, but the green dial spoke to me.  I’ve never had a green dial watch, so I thought I’d give it a go.  Unfortunately, the dial feet don’t match with the watch, nor does the date window line up perfectly, but I figured I’d roll with it.  I clipped the feet, sanded the backside and found some info on adhering the dial to the movement.  Things were starting to take shape.  I should note somewhere along the way that I torched the glass and removed the cyclops……..mucho bettero.

And with that, things began to take shape very quickly.

With the first time wearing the watch, I realized I had a problem.  I hadn’t noticed during assembly, but it seemed the time was skipping.  I assumed I hadn’t hit some time warp with this watch and found that the minute hand shaft on the movement was slightly undersized from the hands I had purchased.  I proved this theory when I tried a second set of hands with the same issue.  Frustrating, but I quickly realized that I could fix this with a staking tool I have.  A real quick press of consecutively smaller punches and I had the ID where I needed it to be to work.  Another reminder to be slow and methodical.

Finally taken shape.

I’ll have to snag some new pictures, but I am really enjoying this newly modified watch.  It was far more straight forward than i was planning, but there are many details that I feel are needing to be addressed, though I’m not going to.  I feel these will be a good reminder of things to fix.  The hands are not perfectly flat.  The glass has some issues from when I sand blasted the case.  The strap I’m not thrilled with.  The weight still has Invicta branding on it, which I still am going to modify and laser with something new.  A couple other things, but as a whole, it’s exciting having something that no one else will ever have.  It’s a cheap watch, but one to forever be in the collection.

Andrew

Side note – Hands were purchased from Ofrei and the dial from eBay.  I used 0.005″ thick double sided tape to adhere the dial to the movement.

 

TSE250R Initial Ride Report

First of all….What is it?  The TSE250R is the 2 Stroke Big Bike offering from US Based company GPX Moto.  GPX Moto is a subsidiary of USA MotorToys who also owns Pitster Pro (small bikes).  The TSE250R is in essence a Yamaha DT230 motor packaged into a 2017 Husqvarna TC Chassis.  The manufacturer (in China) apparently bought tooling from Yamaha for the engine, and so far as I know or can tell, the frame, plastics, etc are Husky replicas.  GPX opted on this bike to adapt a CRF450 front fender and a 2015 Yamaha WR450F headlight.

Right side look at the TSE250R

After a bit of time in transit, and getting my lights wired up, I finally got to fire up the TSE250R for some test riding.  Keep in mind that the bulk of my riding has been on the street.  I’m in the middle of flatlandia IL, so very few places to actually ride off-road.

Despite most of my riding being street oriented, it gives a little different perspective from others.  Traditional 2 Stroke engines conjure images of vibrations and the tingling feeling in your hands as they’ve been buzzed to oblivion.  The powerplant of the TSE250R goes a long way to address this issue.  The TSE250R engine, initially a Yamaha engine is one that is counterbalanced.  This counterbalancer smooths out engine vibrations to a degree that on the street, you’re feeling more vibration from the knobby tires than the engine itself.

Right side of engine showing expansion chamber and oil injection pump area.

Now this is not to say that the engine does not feel like a 2 Stroke.  In just about every sense, it does.  There is the ring ding ding of the expansion chamber (which is double walled and sound deadened for noise reduction).  The power kicks in with a bit of revs and tapers off smoothly.  The state of tune on this is for overall power spread.  You’re not getting a massive hit with this engine.  Riding on the street really exacerbates this as you feel the revs taper off quick as you’re clicking through the gears.

Stock gearing on the TSE250R is 12/52.  Comparing this to the original Yamaha this motor was in, and this is incredibly short.  Original DT230 bike ran 16/55 gearing.  This variance though shows just how wide and versatile the transmission in this engine is.  With the TSE250R’s oem gearing, you can comfortably cruise on the street at 60mph.  At these revs, the engine is turning a calculated 7000 RPM.  Despite how high these revs are, as noted earlier, the bike is oddly smooth.  Same setup dropped into some light off-roading and the bike immediately feels far more at home.

Stock chain is O-Ring Type

The brakes on the bike appear to be very similar to the Brembos commonly found on KTM and other Euro bike manufacturers.  However the brakes on the GPX are not Brembo.  This is not a major concern though as the brakes feel very positive, have great grab and when asked, will lock up the wheels.  Time will tell on how they hold up, but initial impressions are very positive.

Very KTM like brake and swingarm setup.

My time spent off-road has been minimal, but this is where the TSE250R motor is shining.  The engine pulls in a very linear fashion.  While a big hit of a more racey 2 Stroke may be exhilarating, wider and linear is excellent for off-road.  A quick stab of the clutch quickly picks the engine up onto the pipe, but still smooth, tractable.  In a small ravine, 2nd gear hopped the front wheel over a water eroded rut with ease.  Rolling back down and to jump out, on the gas, the bike roosted out with a slight jump.  Landing and immediately accelerating off to the edge of my property.

A downside to the bike so far has been with regards to throttle and throttle response.  Coming from a Fuel Injected 4T, with an ultra light throttle, I miss the immediate response.  Fuel Injection provides absolutely crisp throttle response.  In comparison, the carburetor dulls these responses and even with “perfect” jetting on a given day, it’ll be slightly off the next.  That is what it is.  I appreciate its simplicity, but if you’ve been spending time on an injected bike, you’ll feel the difference.  The other downfall is the throttle is on the heavy side.  This isn’t carburetor related, but moreso that the bike has mechanical Oil Injection.  For this to function (for those not familiar with 70’s 2 Stroke bikes), the throttle cable splits off in a Y, with one end terminating at the carburetor and the other at the oil injection pump.  The more throttle, the more oil.  Consequently you end up with spring returns in both the carburetor as well as the oil pump, giving a slightly heavier throttle pull.

A side look into the “mikuni TM” carb.  Note also the electronic Powervalve

The main thing I’m anxious to test more on is with regards to suspension and chassis.  The TSE250R is setup with FastAce suspension.  The bit I did test on my property felt very compliant.  Despite running tires at silly high pressure (24psi for road use), the tires kept firmly planted on the ground.  Looking where I wanted to go, the bike didn’t think twice about tipping down into the turn and following through.  Steering is incredibly light with great feel.  Turning radius does feel somewhat limited, though this may only be an issue if you’re going full trials mode with your riding.

I noted the downside above regarding throttle pull, and while I’d like to say that is my only complaint, I feel there are a couple others that can be noted.  One is that there are hints of the “Chinesium” on the bike.  These details can be seen in add-on type areas.  For example, the front fender is off of a modern Honda CRF450R.  The triple clamps appear to be KTM Replicas.  Instead of adjusting tooling for the lower triple clamp to directly mate with the Honda based front fender, they chose to make a steel adapter to fit the Honda fender to the KTM clamp.  Yes, it works, however this adds weight and extra complexity.  This is the same for how other extra parts add on notably around the dash and extra brackets for mounting a number plate vs the supplied headlight.

My greatest real concern on this is the fact that everything so far on the bike appears to be a replica, or I guess say it how you will, a knockoff.  I found this out as myself and others online were beginning to rejet their bikes for use and weather.  The carburetor is supposed to be a Mikuni TM30 carburetor.  After digging in, it is apparent that the carburetor too is a replica of the original Mikuni.  This can cause issues if you’re looking to use OEM Mikuni components.  Main Jets from Mikuni for this carburetor are a very goofy thread size.  M5.3 x 0.9.  The manufacturer of this carb opted to thread the needle jet (where main jet threads into) with the more common M5x0.8.  They also size their jets differently from Mikuni.  Not major issues, but it can throw some complication in the mix.

As things stand, it’s hard to say how you can beat the value of this bike.  New from GPX, the TSE250R hits the bank for $5600 (+Shipping).  Compared to a new KTM, you’re saving around $3000.  Long term is obviously a work in progress and you won’t have to twist my arm to do my part to put this bike through a torture test.  Simply put so far on this is that if you’re OK with being a sort of beta tester for a first line of bikes from GPX, then you very little chance of being disappointed with the bike.  I know I’m looking forward to what else GPX has in the works.

Overall this is a great machine that should be on your new bikes to consider list.

For more pictures and detail views, check the following gallery: